Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Zigzag to Overcast or Overlock

Today we take a look at what overcasting is and how to do it using a zigzag stitch.

An overcast stitch locks the edges of the fabric so it doesn't fray. You can see in the photo above what material looks like with an overcast stitch. 

The piece of fabric above has a raw edge (no overcast stitch). Raw edges have a tendency to fray.

These are the stitches that are available on my machine the Brother SE400. Numbers 7 through 16 are most commonly used for overcasting. Some of these stitches are used for thicker materials or for different types of looks. For this job I am using a simple zigzag stitch (number 7 above).

Above you can see that I have the zigzag stitch selected. You can also see that it uses the standard "J" foot as indicated in the upper left part of the screen.

When you overcast with a zigzag stitch, the needle has two downward positions, left and right. You want the right down stroke in this case to fall off of the fabric. When I start out my overcast stitch I like to put the needle in the down position. I slide the material under the raised presser foot until it barely touches the needle. This way I know where my drop off is. 

When the needle repositions to its left downstroke you want the needle to come down in the fabric.This action wraps the edge of your fabric with the top thread and the bobbin thread creating the overcast.

You can see (behind the presser foot) as I sew the zigzag stitch and keep the right downstroke just off the edge on the fabric, it creates a nice even overcast stitch. You also want to pay attention to the tension setting so the fabric does not bind up unwantedly. 

As you are sewing, fray from the material will poke out the edge of the overcast stitch. You can simply go around the edges and trim these if needed for aesthetics. Be careful not to trim too close or you could accidentally cut your overcast stitch.

If you would like to see see a video of how to use a zigzag stitch to overcast you can click HERE

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